Old jewellery can turn up in many different places, from car boot sales to inherited pieces and antique market finds. There are some genuinely amazing and rare pieces out there in the world that you can happen across at any time.
But what do you do if you find jewellery you think might have some history behind it, and how do you tell if it's a genuine antique or it just looks old?
There will be signs. Read on to find out more.
The Hallmarks
One of the biggest giveaways that your jewellery has been around for a while is the hallmarks on it. All British hallmarks are stamped into gold, silver and platinum pieces by an assay office. These hallmarks tell you the standard of the metal, where it was tested and in many cases, exactly when it was made.
The date letter system has been running since the 15th century which means a hallmarked piece can often be dated to a specific year.
To find this look on the inside of a ring shank, the back of a broach or the clasp of a necklace. If you're having trouble reading the hallmark or you're not entirely sure how to interpret it you can use the hallmarks guide at Antique Jewellers to find out the assay office and date letter system to correctly age your piece.
The Stone Cut
Diamond cutting technology has changed drastically over the centuries and the cut of a stone can place the period it was made in more reliably than some other methods.
Old mine cuts and old European cuts with their high crowns, small tables and large culets were standard before the early 20th century. While rose cuts, which are flat bottomed with a domed tip covered in triangular facets, are older still.
If you have a stone that looks like it's cut considerably differently from modern designs, then this is an indicator that it's got some history to it.
The Setting
There are some settings that are popular and vastly different prior to today's modern options. And if you're finding close-back settings, for example, here the metal wraps entirely around the base of the stone. This is a sign it could be from the Victorian era as this was popular then.
While milgrain edging, where you have tiny beading detail along the edge of a setting, is strongly associated with the Edwardian period and art deco.
The setting alone can be indicative of the era the jewellery was made, and if it also bears the right details from other checks, then you've likely got yourself a bona fide piece of antique jewellery.
The Craftmanship
That's not to say today's jewellers aren't as skilled as those from years ago, but there are some noticeable differences in how jewellery was made and how it's made today. Before mass production, each piece was made by hand, and the evidence will be visible if you looked for it. You'll see file marks, slight asymmetry and tool marks on the metal surface. These are all signs it was handmade. Also, engraving on older pieces was done by hand, meaning you'll notice it has a fluidity and depth that machine engraving cannot replicate.

