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The Great West Way - Day 3 Devizes To Yattendon

The Great West Way is a 125-mile touring route between London and Bristol based on ancient roads. Recently we were invited on a press trip covering this touring route driving through characterful villages, towns full of history and bustling cities in the South West of England.


We started in Bristol, headed towards Bath, stopped in Devizes and now it was our day 3. You can catch up with our day 1 and day 2 here.

Day 3 Devizes to Yattendon

On day 3 we woke up in our luxurious lodge in Devizes Marina with a view of canal boats from our window. 


Our lodge had been so cosy last night and we would definitely recommend a stay here.


With two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a small but perfectly formed kitchen, a lounge/diner and a hot tub, the lodge had everything we needed. It was beautifully decorated too, which is always a plus point, in muted shades of browns and creams. 


You can hire a boat on the canal too if you want to unleash your inner Rosie and Jim.

So it was time to check out and make our way to our first stop, Wadworth Brewery. 


Wadworth Brewery is located in the heart of Devizes, a short drive from Devizes Marina. Established in 1875 this family-owned brewery still makes traditionally made ales today.


To find out more about the brewery we took a brewery tour that runs Monday to Saturday, all year round excluding bank holidays. 



The tour begins with a potted history of the brewery, and you are shown the brewing process in their traditional Victorian brewery.  

I didn't realise Wadworth Brewery produces 12.5 million pints a year, that's a lot of beer! The use of traditional methods are still going strong, and even the yeast is from a batch that is 45 years old.  However, Wadworth Brewery has also moved with the times and they now make gluten-free and vegan beer - not many people know that.




It was interesting to see the traditional pub signs being renovated and painted in the workshop at the brewery too. The good old British weather really does give the signs a battering. They are one of only a few last remaining brewers in the UK that still have an in-house sign writing team upholding this traditional art of hand painting. The skill that goes into painting each pub sign is obvious. 






It was also cool to see the shire horses. The shire horses at the brewery have been delivering real ales to local pubs for the past 140 years. Although they are working horses they also make promotional visits to pubs around the country and take part in county shows where they win awards for their immaculate turnout and grooming.

We ended the visit with a tasting of the real ales, which is always a plus point! The Wadworth Brewery Tour costs £12 per adult and takes around 2 and a half hours. It's an old brewery and there are some steep stairs so if you have mobility issues I would check with the brewery first that they can accommodate you to avoid disappoin
tment.




Our next stop was for lunch at the Three Tuns Freehouse, a 35-minute drive away. We had heard how amazing the food was so felt this drive was worth it, and it wasn't far from our next stop on the North Wessex Downs.

The Three Tuns Freehouse is a freehold village pub midway between Marlborough and Hungerford on the Wiltshire/Berkshire border. Service was efficient and as we ordered we were greeted by James, the chef who spoke with enthusiasm about the pub and the food he cooks. With the emphasis on quality food, from local suppliers, the Three Tuns has won a variety of awards such as the best local restaurant in the South West by the Good Food Guide 2019 and Sawdays 'Most Authentic Pub'.





But enough talking, it was time to order and before long our food arrived.


Mr W ordered the beetroot risotto. I was intrigued by this dish, the colour was very vivid, so had to try it and it was really tasty! Who knew beetroot risotto could be so flavourful, I was really surprised?

My ham egg and chips were very good too. Great quality ham from a butcher in Devizes with a good marbling of fat, and a tasty cure. Served with hand cut chips and two perfectly done fried eggs, it was a simple hearty flavourful plate for food.


The dessert was perfect for those with a sweet tooth - an amazingly rich chocolate and peanut butter cheesecake. Not the lightest of dessert yet incredibly moreish, the thin biscuit base was topped with a sticky chocolate filling and a rich peanut butter ganache. Served with a creamy milk sorbet and shavings of peanut brittle, it certainly was a dessert to die for!


Would we visit again? For sure, as we can say, hand on heart, its some of the best pub food we've ever had. Definitely worth a visit if you are in the area.


North Wessex Downs 




Our next stop was Pewsey Downs in the North Wessex Downs, an area of outstanding natural beauty.  There is a small car park at Pewsey Downs so that is useful to know if you are thinking of stopping here.



What's so special about Pewsey Downs is that it is an unspoilt chalk downland area, of special scientific interest. It covers three hills - Milk Hill, Walkers Hill and Knap Hill and includes the Alton Barnes white horse, made of chalk and cut into the hillside.


The horse is approximately 180 feet high and 160 feet long and was cut into the side of the mountain in 1812 under the commission of local farmer Robert Pile. It's the second biggest of the nine white horses in the Wiltshire countryside. 

We wrapped up well on our visit to the area, as it had been snowing and it was bitterly cold. There is no shelter in the area so if you do go for a walk be sure to wear weather appropriate clothing. Our guide Anne Shepley from North Wessex Downs tourism took us around the area. Check out the North Wessex Downs website where you can download maps and tourist information of the area. 


The landscape looked beautiful with a fine dusting of snow, I bet in the summer with a carpet of pretty flowers on the downland and the butterflies fluttering around it is a sight to be seen too. Apparently, there are rare early Gentian flowers in the Spring and Summer as well as Orchids and the internationally rare Marsh Fritillary butterflies   Landscape views stretch across the Vale of Pewsey to Salisbury Plain and on a clear day, you can see for miles.

Before long it was time to move on as we were getting frosty, but we will definitely return in the spring or summer.  

Yattendon 


Our last stop for today was the little village of Yattendon. By this time, the weather has worsened and had started to snow quite heavily.

The Royal Oak in Yattendon was our stop for the night. We were given one of the rooms in their cottage which had a four-poster bed. It's always nice to stay in a room with a four-poster, as it adds a little romance and touch of glamour to a stay.

The room was a good size, with a small seating area, large wardrobe, flat screen TV and dressing table. The furnishings were good quality and the room was decorated in shades of cream, browns and beige.



I was really impressed with the bathroom, which was large and very spacious. Bonus points for having two sinks, as Mr W always likes to hog one, and a large rainfall shower as well as a bath. 



A kettle and a tea and coffee tray was a nice touch, with homemade biscuits. I was asked if I wanted fresh milk, and they brought me soya milk at no extra charge. So nice not to have UHT milk. It's little touches like that, that make all the difference and make you think you are staying in a quality establishment.

The room was super warm and cosy, which we were pleased about as it was freezing outside. It had a little courtyard area outside too which would be perfect on a sunny day.

So after freshening up it was time to eat again. I must admit, after the lunch we had I wasn't that hungry but needs must, and after a drink in the hotel, and a look at the menu, my appetite started to return.




Some tasty prawns in a light tempura batter with sweet chilli sauce was a decent starter but didn't blow me away.







Mr W had the baked tortellini from the pizza oven with tomato melting mozzarella and basil, whilst I had the stuffed belly pork with apricot stuffing and green beans.  Both dishes were well executed, the stuffing added a lovely sweet flavour to the belly pork, and the baked tortellini being an excellent choice for vegetarians. For dessert, some good quality New Forest vanilla ice cream made a simple end to a meal, and at only £1.50 a scoop was a bargain. 

Service was very attentive at the restaurant. A little note - as this pub is in an area noted for hunting,  if you are a vegetarian the trophies on the walls may not be your sort of thing.  


That night we slept exceptionally well in our room and woke up to heavy snow fallen. Unfortunately, due to the weather, we decided to go home early and cut our trip short.  First, however it was time for breakfast.



A selection of cereals and fruit as well as toast were available and a cooked to order breakfast with some lovely choices you don't get everywhere.


I went with the smashed avocado and poached egg on toast which was delicious. A scattering of pine nuts added a little crunch, some chilli and lemon a little heat and sharpness.  Mr W enjoyed his Eggs Benedict which was cooked perfectly and not overdone.

So it was time to make our way home. Our next stop would have been a trip on a canal boat on the Kennet and Avon Canal and a visit to Newbury, to try the Newbury Pub and gin distillery, but we will have to return to do this again. 


The Great West Way continues through Berkshire and ends at the Thames in London. To continue on this route I would suggest a visit to Windsor Castle and perhaps Hampton Court or Kew Gardens. 

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I hope you enjoyed our journey on the Great West Way, check out our videos below for more information on this 125 mile touring route between Bristol and London and the Great West Way website. 

Let me know what you thought of the trip!







* AD thanks to the Great West Way for inviting us on this press trip

The Great West Way - Day 2 Bath To Devizes

Recently we were invited on a press trip covering the route of the Great West Way. Our trip was complimentary but we were not paid for the experience.

The Great West Way is a 125-mile touring route between London and Bristol based on ancient roads. The route is special as it meanders through picture-perfect villages, wonderful historic towns and fantastic vibrant cities in the South West of England.



As we live in South Wales, We started in Bristol and headed towards London. The route is modular so you can do as little or as much of the route as you want. I covered Day 1 in Bristol, heading towards Bath in a previous post, here - Day 1 of the Great West Way road trip. Day 3 will be posted soon, but onto day 2 here.

Day 2 Bath To Devizes



Bath

We stayed last night at the Roseate Villa Bath, a beautiful small boutique hotel a short stroll from the heart of Bath. For breakfast, there was a choice of continental dishes including gorgeous Greek yoghurt with compote in cool little Kilner jars, scrumptious pastries that were super flaky, freshly squeezed juice in cute little bottles, including an excellent orange juice,  a selection of cereals including granola and muesli, and fresh fruit, including poached pears (something I have never seen at a breakfast buffet).


We also had a choice of a cooked to order breakfast. Options included a full English breakfast with Wiltshire bacon, Eggs Benedict, blueberry pancakes and more.



I went with the avocado on toast with mushrooms which was delicious and seasoned to perfection. Service again was exemplary, Jean-Luc is a true asset to this establishment, nothing was too much trouble for him. The Roseate Villa has a TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence and also has recently been awarded a TripAdvisor Travellers Choice Award as one of the top 25 hotels for service in the UK!  Service was top notch, and never obtrusive, instead, welcoming, informative and warm. We would definitely return!

So with heavy hearts, it was time to check out and onto our first stop of the day, The Romans Baths. 



The Roman Baths take you back 2000 years to the days when Bath was a spa town and people visited to bathe in the medicinal waters and drink the mineral-laced water. 



In the Roman Baths, you can find out about the history of the baths, interact with the actors helping history come alive and drink the water from the water fountain.


You cannot bathe in the water anymore, unfortunately.  It's well worth listening to the informative audio guide which is free and available in a number of languages. Ticket prices for adults start at £14.40 off-peak and if you are a lover of history, it's a must-do in Bath. The Roman Baths is a great day out with kids as well, for more ideas of what to do in Bath with kids, check out this post.



From the Roman Baths, we took a short walk to Nicholas Wylde Jewellers. 



This bespoke boutique jeweller was recommended to us by the Great West Way team. Nicholas Wylde Jewellers has been in Bath for 31 years and there is also a branch in Bristol. On our visit, we were lucky to meet the man behind the shop - Nicholas Wylde, who gave us a tour of the workshop. 


Nicholas Wylde Jewellers sells a range of gold and silver jewellery and a big part of their business is the bespoke design service, where they make on average 30 bespoke pieces made for individual clients a week. 


We were privileged to take a peek into their workshop and see the different processes that go into making a piece of designer jewellery, from the sketching of the design to the CAD design on the computer, to a ring being set with diamonds.


Everything is completed to the utmost quality and high-level specifications from maker jewellers that have trained for years to get to this level.



Nicholas Wylde Jewellers is also know for its Wylde Flower Diamond jewellery unique to them. The Wylde Flower Diamond is special because it has 84 facets (cuts) in the diamond. This makes the diamond super sparkly as it has 24 more facets that a normal brilliant cut diamond. If you look closely you can see the flower design in the diamond. The diamonds are ethically sourced and cut by a company in the heart of the Antwerp Diamond Centre. Each diamond is also certified by the International Gemmological Institute too so you know you are getting a quality diamond.



I must admit I did drop a little hint to Mr W, as after all surely a lady with a website called The Diary Of A Jewellery Lover deserves a diamond every now and again don't you think? Maybe he will buy me a precious Wyld Flower Diamond - watch this space!



When we finished at Nicholas Wylde Jewellers, it was time to meet Nigel, one of the guides at Around And About Bath for a walking tour of the centre of Bath. I was really looking forward to this, as although I have visited Bath a couple of times a year for the last 25 years I have yet to go on a walking tour of the city.

Around And About Bath provide small tours of Bath and the South West of England, and their tours focus on history, heritage and quirkiness. 


Nigel our guide was such an enthusiastic and happy chap that you could tell he really loves living in this amazing city. 

On our tour, we found out about the Circus - the area in the centre of Bath with Georgian houses which was the place to see and be seen. Nigel demonstrated how if you stand in the centre of the Circus and clap then it echos all around. A neat little trick. 



Nigel also took us to a couple of areas of Bath that I didn't know existed, such as the Bath Botanical Gardens and a small Georgian garden meticulously recreated for people to visit. So many hidden gems in Bath and the tour was very informative and fun. 


Our last stop was the Assembly Rooms, this grand building was the centre of society dances in Bath in the 18th century. Jane Austen would have danced there in all her finery. It was a place to be seen. Nigel told us that at the end of the night though in the warm environment the makeup would have run down their faces - can you imagine the sight? 


Nigel also showed us old Putney Bridge, a beautiful bridge from the front but dirty and unloved from the back, but again only the facade mattered in Georgian times.  Bath was the place where appearances mattered for sure! 

We can highly recommend Around And About Bath for a tour of this historic city with a few surprises along the way. Check out their other tours too, I don't think you will be disappointed.




Now it was time for lunch. Koffman and Mr White's is a French brasserie-style restaurant around the corner from Bath Abbey.

The dining room here is fresh and modern in style and is a good place to have a special lunch or dinner with a French chic air. Service was confident but welcoming and not stuffy like you can get in some upmarket French restaurants. 

Mr W ordered a starter and a main, a French onion soup and a vegetable cassoulet and I ordered a main and a dessert, a curry and a pavlova. 



I honestly thought the French onion soup was the best I have ever tried. The soup was made with a rich broth of beef stock, plenty of sliced onions, large slices of French bread croutons and a mountain of gruyere cheese. An excellent bowl of soup for a hearty lunch. 


The curry was described as "The Connaught’s coq and shrimp curry, fresh mango, ginger, buttered rice". It was a good curry, very mild though and I would have liked some more spice.  

Mr W. vegetable dish was similar to a bean casserole and he says he enjoyed it!


The dessert - a tropical pavlova, was excellent! With mango ice cream, slices of mango, kiwi fruit and pomegranate, it was sweet, delicious and moreish. Highly recommended.


Lacock

So it was time to get in the car and onto our next stop, Lacock, home to Lacock Abbey.  Lacock is a village about a 35 to 40-minute drive from the centre of Bath and 3 miles south of Chippenham. It is owned almost entirely by the National Trust and attracts many visitors due to its unspoiled appearance.  



You may recognise Lacock Abbey as it was used for filming a number of the Harry Potter films as well as Pride and Prejudice and the latest film Fantastic Beasts: The Crimes of Grindelwald in the cinema now. It's a beautiful building and lovers of architecture will really appreciate it.
As well as the abbey, Lacock is home to the Fox Talbot Museum, a photography museum that discusses William Henry Fox Talbot who is famous for his contributions to the invention of photography. We didn't have time to visit unfortunately but it looked an interesting stop along the Great West Way. 



Admission to Lacock Abbey and the Fox Talbot Museum is £16 for adults and £8 for children, National Trust members get in for free. I recommend bringing some change for parking as the ticket machine did not take cards.

Devizes


So our last stop today was to Devizes, a 20-minute drive away, where we would be staying that night. The property in Devizes was rather special as it was next to a canal at Devizes Marina.










Devizes Marina is based on the Kennet & Avon Canal. It's a peaceful location and the new lodges we stayed in are well appointed and in excellent condition. 



The decor in creams and browns was simple and chic and the lodge we stayed in could sleep four easily in two bedrooms, one twin and one double. There was a separate bathroom and an ensuite shower room and toilet to the master bedroom.

The kitchen had everything you could need to make a meal including a full-size cooker, small dishwasher, fridge and freezer.  There was an outside terrace and a hot tub was a great touch! Unfortunately, as it was super cold, it did take a long time to heat up and wasn't ready in the evening so we had to go without our hot tub experience but I bet it would be lovely in the summer. 



So that night, after a hectic day we decided to stay in and cook. 



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Catch our day 3 on the Great West Way soon, where we visit Wadworth Brewery, as well as take a walk on the North Wessex Downs. 

* AD thanks to the Great West Way for inviting us on this press trip